The Great Danube Cruise, Vienna Day One
I woke up this morning as excited as a little kid
before the circus. We woke up at 7 and caught a cab to the train station in
Melk at 8am. As we left the boat the towering abby in Melk loomed grandly and
gilded above us. It was almost exciting not to visit it. Like an exquisite
unopened present waiting.
The train was effortless and ever so elegant. I was
already loving Austria for it’s cleanliness, timeliness and efficiency. We
glided through the countryside for an hour and a half until we arrived in Vienna
at 10. I was expecting some glorious Belle Époque train station but we arrived
to a stark Brutalist station. The former one was bombed during the war.
Regardless, we were in Vienna and I was ready to be dazzled.
We took a cab directly to the Spanish Riding School
located in the Hofburg Palace.
Instant dazzle. We were driven up to the front of the
palace and walked into what I would call a royal porte-cochere. It was under
vast arches with massive lanterns and horse and carriages were wizzing through
it just as if we had stepped back into the 19th century. We walked
into the riding school and the ancienne regime scrim lifted to reveal the
modern ticket lines, registers and metal doors that cold have been a check
cashing office minus the dvd on a loop of the Lipizzaners in all of their
glory. While waiting in line I already started tearing up.
When we walked in for the 11am performance I had
forgotten I splurged on good tickets. Second row! Then the lighted dimmed, the
chandeliers were hoisted up and we were teased with the younger stallions and
their trainers. They were fine, a little nervous and timid but it was exiting
to see the ‘next generation’.
After ten minutes the big boys were announced. Their
grace, beauty and strength brought tears to my eyes over and over. This was
something I have wanted to see since my grandmother would tune in on TV
specials and coo, 'Ohhhhh it's the Lipuh-zanuuhs!' In her Southern accent.
After the show we raided the gift shop where I nearly
bought one of everything. The. We headed to the Hotel Sacher (pronounced Saker)
for lunch in their elegant Belle Époque cafe. I had schnitzel and we split the
famous Sacher Tort invented by the hotelier.
Since we we knee deep in horses we decided to head
back for the 2pm tour of the riding school. That was another treat to hear more
about their training, history and of course to see the famed stables built in
the 1600's. They have since been renovated a bit to be even more glorious with
brass plaques showing their double barreled names and marble drinking fountains
in each stall. While we were not allowed to touch the horses I did spend some
quality time with one stallion who was chomping on some hay and just kept an
eye on me next to his stall. We had a moment. It was special and I'll never
forget his precious pink TK. My movement want as memorable as the Arab girl
next to me. She was leaning up against a stall when a stallion lifted it's tale
and let out the most elegant fart I've ever heard. She double over laughing as
did I. Too much hay apparently!
After this second slice of heaven we hot another
jackpot. In the same palace is the Sisi Museum. Sisi is the nickname of one of
my favorite royals, Empress Elizabeth who was assassinated by a mad Italian
with an ice pick through her corset.
But first we visited the palaces china rooms.
Now back to Sisi:
She was a bit like Daphne Guinness - she kept to
herself but when she was in public she dazzled. She was very modern for the
1800's - she worked out every morning and she was a compulsive dieter to keep
her waist at 25 inches. She also would have meat out through a juicer and drink
'meat juice' to loose weigh. And yes, we saw the meat juicer in the royal china
collection!
Meat Juicer!
It was also exciting to see many of her clothing items
on display in a revolutionary new way of showcasing old and delicate pieces
through low lighting and acid free mannequins and display cases. Her 25 inch
belt was included.
Since we spent nearly all day in one palace we headed
to one more- The Imperial Palace, which is now a hotel. And of course they have
their own famous torte so we had to have an Imperial Torte. I also had to try a
real live Vienna sausage! Since I grew up eating those gross little wieners in
congealed goo, this was a much swankier version and well worth the order.
By now it was 5:15 and the boat arrived at 5:30 from
Melk. So we hailed a cab and zipped to the dock and met the boat as it was
pulling up. How is that for timing?
No rest for the wicked though. We had dinner at 6:15
and then headed back out at 7:45 for a night of Viennese music. We bused over
to the concert hall and listened to Mozart, Strauss and others which was more
delightful than I expected. But halfway through it was hard to keep my eyes
peeled open so I just let the music take me to equestrian fantasy dreams and
lulled away the rest if the show in dreamy delight. Tomorrow a morning tour of
Vienna and a tour of the Hapsburg country palace.
