You asked for it- RUSSIA IN FULL

Diary of Moscow & St. Petersburg
October 9th- 21 2008



Thursday
Due to a crappy sick baby on our flight we had to go back to the terminal, dump off the baby and then get back in line to take off. 2 hours late! We arrived in Moscow at noon and after a quick passport control we met Marina our guide outside. BURR! It’s cold but that is just what I hoped for. Moscow in the heat? I don’t think so. It took us two hours to get to the hotel. Moscow is notorious for its traffic.

We quickly checked in, took a bird bath and headed back out for a tour of Red Square. If we took a nap mother (and I) would have been goners. The walk over was enjoyable and when we reached the front gates of the square my heart started pounding and I got dizzy. Like when I was 13 and for the first time seeing Notre Dame, here I was gazing at one of the great symbols of our world. St. Basils was eye popping in color and perspective at the far end of this massive square. Lenin’s tomb on one side and the swank GUM department store lining the entire left side of the square, much like Harrods does on Brompton road. Funny enough, like seeing the Taj Mahal you realize how small the cathedral really is. And once Marina took us inside we were astounded at what a dump it is. Built in the 15th century it is all old bricks, faded icons and paint buckets left in corners. No glistening iconoclasts, dazzling gold chandeliers or wafts of incense. But it was interesting and I am glad we perused. It really isn’t a cathedral anyways but a monument to 10 of Ivan the Terrible's victories, hence ten onion domes.

Next we walked through GUM’s grocery department, which was quite chic, and Marina (who reminds me of Yaiyai) told us the price SHE pays for the same things at her local grocery and kept asking me to go into designer boutiques to be astonished by the prices. Once I converted them (25 rubles to $1) I told her they were just as expensive in NYC. She didn’t believe me.

By this time Mother and I could hardly speak so we headed back to the hotel for a two-hour nap before dinner.

Dinner was at one of the spots I requested- THE MOST. I kid you not. How Nouveau Riche? It was quite grand. 18th century rooms with velvet curtains and chandeliers. Everyone was smoking and nobody was dressed. Of course mother was in jewels and I was in a suit. I had venison and mother had an amazing salmon I was jealous of. I had a crap martini; two glasses of Chilean wine and mother had a scotch. No bottles and no appetizers since we are TRYNG to be on a budget of some sort. After all we are touring the week is experiencing its worst financial crisis ever. Still the bill was $180. Not bad.

Afterwards we strolled back over to Red Square. Tired but excited to see it at night. It was well worth it. GUM, like Harrods is outlined in white lights while lovers stroll around the square cuddling in the cold. After several clicks of the camera we headed back and passed out at 10pm!

Friday

Rotten nights sleep. Finally passed out at 6 and woke up at 730 for a jog. Was so glad I peeled myself out of bed. Put on my favorite new musician Sam Sparrow and leaped out of the hotel and jogged up to Red Square. Jogging around that majestic cobble stoned square in the fresh morning air was revitalizing and head clearing. Also cough inducing! Hacked all day from all the deep breathing.

Dressed, had breakfast and met Marina in the lobby to head to the Kremlin. I had no idea what to expect but assumed it would be a tour of old buildings, offices and military defenses. Little did I know I would be launched into a Diana Vreeland frenzy in the Kremlin Armory. This is where the Czars and government kept Royal jewelry, Faberge artwork, coronation gowns, royal carriages, thrones and priests costumes. I was in heaven! First we toured the clergy cloaks covered in pearls, emeralds, diamonds and rubies. Then we studied the thrones, Ivan the Terrible’s covered in ivory, others bejeweled in turquoise, and one resembling a Willy Wonka traveling machine. Then we found ourselves in the equestrian room where we found saddles actually used by Ivan, Catherine and others. The jingling metal reigns, bejeweled halters and gold cuffs. Next stop was the carriage room where we saw a carriage from the 1600’s (that couldn’t turn!) to tiny sleighs used by a young Peter the Great, over the top Baroque carriages used by Elisabeth and more regal and sublime carriages used by Catherine commissioned in Paris.

Another highlight were the two large rooms dedicated to gifts given to Russia for other countries including a set of Severes porcelain given by Napoleon before he invaded. I loved the gold follies of castles on hills. You could open a hill and insert incense making the castle billow smoke. We then came back around to the costume area where we admired Catherine the Great’s coronation gown, one of Elisabeth’s 15,000 gowns and caftans worn by Peter the Great! I knew I got that trend from someone important. We also saw a pair of boots he made himself. At 6’7” the kaftans were tall and the boots long.

As far as I am concerned I could leave Moscow now. I am done. That was exactly what I wanted to see and I could go back today. But alas we continued our tour. We then strolled over to a cluster of churches in the Kremlin each used for a different purpose. We toured one which Napoleon used as a stable and another where every canonized Czar is buried.

Hungry we walked down and out of the Kremlin and into an underground mall that was pretty gross but we had a cheap and cheerful Russian meal of borsht and ham and cheese crepes (I know that sounds French but here they are called pancakes!)

We then met the driver and hit two shops I had heard were hot- UK Style and Form. They were both very cool carrying Dries, Comme and even my client Penfield! The shoppers and retailers were hardly chic. Sad. I can’t get a trend picture to save my life over here.

Speaking of- top trends: Overworked denim! Rhinestoned Denim! Slashed denim! All girls in high high heels and nude hose. All men in mullets and everyone smoking…

Afterwards we had a nice surprise when Marina took us to the Art Nouveau home where Gorky lived. It was really stunning with its organic curves, stained glass, Gaudi-esque marble staircase and elaborate floors. By now we were about exhausted but we had to hit one more church. Two more actually. On the way to the car we popped into a tiny non-nonsense church on a corner that was spectacular inside in the true Russian Orthodox fashion of low ceilings, icons everywhere and loads of incense. We learned that the round candleholders are where one lights candles for the living where the rectangular ones is where one lights candles for the dead. Next stop was a massive church that was originally built in the 1800 to commemorate the defeat of Napoleon. But Stalin saw it outside his window in the 20’s and thought it should be demolished to create a palace in honor of Communism. He had it bulldozed and then the war came and nothing came of his palace. It was later turned into a public swimming hole in the 1960’s where our guide spent many a lovely day then in the 1990’s the city raised money to have to original church rebuilt and it was completed in 2000! Looks just like the original and was quite impressive.

We came home for a quick siesta where I spun out o my laptop sending pictures out, facebooking and checking my Yahoo BPMW account. At 7 we headed out in the rain to the Ritz Carleton roof top bar for a cocktail and dazzling view of the Kremlin lit up then strolled over to Vogue Café for dinner. It was a comical place. Trying so hard to be chic but everyone in there was so gross, on cell phones blowing cigar smoke everywhere and thumping bad music. I lost AGAIN on the food field. Try once more to enjoy some Russian game hunted in the dark forests of Russia. I ordered rabbit on buckwheat risotto but ended up AGAIN with a chicken McNugget like patty with no flavor on a pile of risotto. Boo. We headed home, watched the sad, sad news of the world’s financial ruin then hit the hay.

Wednesday

Got up at 7am, went to breakfast and hit the gym for 45 minutes. Woke mom up at 830 and lounged, got dressed, headed to breakfast and met Marina at 1030. We took the car about an hour outside of the city to visit Stalin’s bunker but not before stopping by a regal old cathedral to catch part of Mass. Have you ever smelled God? In this heavy, dark and gilded monument to spirituality the incense was swirling, the chanting was deep and rhythmic and the candles were flickering and illuminating everything with the perfect glow. There aren’t many places I have felt more reverential. Most churches make me feel a bit pious but Russian Orthodox Cathedral’s make me feel simple in awe. They are so calming, soothing and peaceful. I can see why robber barons enjoyed plucking old Cathedral bits from Europe and placing them in their grand American homes.

We then continued to Stalin’s bunker, which just happened to be in the middle of the flea market we were going to later. Strange I know. We entered a back lot of the market and climbed down a flight of stairs to enter the bunker. We knocked and a very serious security guard opened the door for us. We realized they were opening just for us! Private tours are always such a treat. The place was shabby chic. Not shabby really but just stale. Hey it’s a bunker. We were met by a handsome little man in the ‘oval office’ area where he sat us down and gave us the history of the place and then a tour. Stalin only visited the place once or twice and it was never used for its purpose, a bunker if the Germans invaded Moscow. But an Armenian man bought the decrepit place in 1990 and rebuilt the interior as it would of looked in the 1940’s. HIGHLIGHT- after touring Stalin’s office with his original chair and couch the guide asked me if I would like my picture sitting in Stalin’s chair. WHY NOT! I grabbed his pipe, picked up the KGB phone and tried to look serious. Hysterical. I think the guide was a ‘friend of Dorothy’s’ and was being sweet to me. The tour didn’t last too much longer and then we said goodbye and headed out into the mayhem of the market.

The market is the size of three football fields but most of it is a wholesale market where people come to buy bulk blankets, towels, cheap clothes and bags for their shops all around Moscow and the countryside. But Marina took us to the antiques area, which was AMAZING. Old icons, communist memorabilia, photos, shadow boxes, books, church memorabilia, ancient keys the size of my hand, simply everything. There was also a souvenir area where we bought our stacking dolls and Moscow guidebooks. Here Marina bartered with the seller for so long I nearly lost my mind. Over $4! But she is from a different generation I guess. We spent a good amount if time here and I could of bought piles of things if they only accepted credit cards!

We met the car and I passed out as we headed back to the city to tour Pushkin’s museum. Those 4 hours of sleep were catching up with me. Pushkin was pleasant. I never turn down a tour of Impressionism, Fauvism and Picasso’s blue period. Marina is a great lover of art and we had some great chats over paintings, which is always enjoyable. We then went straight to dinner at Tourandot where we had quite an experience. It was only 430 and the place wasn’t in full glamour swing but we had to finish by 630 to hit the opera by 700. Never the less it was such an odd experience. What I thought was the most over the top, elegant restaurant I have been too in a long time was full of people in jeans and a kiddie party with a clown! One child swaggered into the main dining room and started pounding on the harp! Then he started screaming for a friend and I had to ‘shush’ him- International language for ‘shut the fuck up.’ But nobody came to take him away and management just let him be. I can’t imagine children at Le Cirque, The National Arts Club or Caprice. But anyhow the experience was AMAZING. Men in 18th century livery costume greet you. The coat check ticket is a brass heavy baroque circle and the wait staff all are dressed as Ladies in Waiting. The main room is a rotunda with Chinoiserie baroque guilt décor climbing to the ceiling, which is anchored, by a massive rock crystal chandelier. The centerpiece of the room is a revolving circular stage set up for a quartet with harp and harpsichord ready to be strummed and tinkled (not by bratty kids but musicians in powdered wigs). And the centerpiece of this stage is a gilded tree with a peacock perched at the top that fanned its tail, spread its wings and swiveled its head every 30 minutes. I want one! Dinner was good but Ill be damned if I cant get a good martini in this town. They brought a glass full of vermouth with a tiny vile of vodka to pour into it. I tried to explain a dirty martini and all was totally lost on my man in livery. We were running late to the opera so I asked one of the men in breeches to retrieve our coats and when he did he gave them to me saying, “Theez is yourz and theez ez for your wife!” I laughed, punched him in the shoulder and said, ‘You mean my mother?!” He turned borsht red. What a compliment to mama. This happens to us on every trip we take. They must all think she is my Sugar Mama.

We walked over to the Opera and wondered who would go to sleep first. We were both exhausted but wouldn’t turn down our tickets. Queen of Spades was mesmerizing. Well for about 20 minutes until I passed out. The lead, Herman, sings in every act, which was a force in voice. There was a ballroom scene where loads of ballerinas filled the stage, which I have never seen before in an opera. We both dozed in and out but what I saw and of course what I heard was divine. Afterwards we could barely make it back to the room before we both hit the hay. But I took two sleeping pills and passed out!

Sunday-
A calm day for once! Today it was raining some kind of horrible. I didn’t even make it to the gym. Just moled into bed. We met Marina at 10:30 and headed over to the Tretyakov museum, one of the most famous museums in Russia. The entire museum is dedicated exclusively to Russian art with the focus being portraiture. My fave! From icons to 16th century royals and forward. We learned that the reason we have never heard of most of these artists is because Russian’s supported French art more than their own and then when Communism hit these artists were never exposed to the rest of the world. We saw a portrait of Pushkin and Marina explained that his great grandfather was ‘bought’ in Ethiopia and brought back to Peter the Great as a jester but Peter educated him, raised him well and he ended up marrying a Russian, so when you notice Pushkin’s tan skin, frizzy hair and big lips you can see his ancestry traces back to Africa. Pretty amazing in my book. We then had a nice lunch in the cafeteria there and headed over to Moscow’s Center for Contemporary Culture (CCCC) set up by Darya Zhukova at the Bakhmetevsky Bus Depot. I have been hearing about this place for a while now since the owner, a hot babe who happens to be dating an Oligarch, invited the crème de la crème of NYC to the three-day opening party. Justin has also been asked to do an instillation there. The exhibit was interesting. “An alternative history of art’ with works by I Kabakov and C. Rosenthal and I. Spivak. Marina couldn’t understand it but was very excited to go there since she lives near it and can’t wait to tell all of her friends she has been. Funny.

By then we had nothing else to do since a walk in the park was out so Marina took us home at 3:30, which was fine by us. Sometimes you just need some me time. I packed, mother read and I headed out to check out Passage, an 18th century arcade filled with Etro, Dunhill and other name brands. Nothing great. Then I took a troll around, got caught in the rain and hoofed it back home.

I took a little nap as did mother and we dressed at 6:30 for dinner and headed out at 7pm. My favorite dinner so far! I guess there were many reasons:
1. We were not rushed
2. We got to dress for dinner
3. Café Pushkin is so manly and handsome
4. I didn’t attempt a martini or crap wine and ordered Scotch with mom
5. My meal was amazing- artichoke and goat cheese salad, Russian meat dumplings with sour cream and a coma inducing mint/chocolate gnoche (sp?) dessert with spun sugar ‘dome’.

Designed by the same decorator as Turandot this is the more masculine of the two resembling an 18th century library with loads of oak, candles, globes, telescopes, books and handsome waiters! The harpist and flautist were seated behind us. Charming.

After dinner we strolled home, watched more financial ruin on TV and passed out.
Great day.

Monday

Woke up on my own at 7:15 and headed to the gym for a quick work out before the 8am wake up call. Made it! Finished packing, got the bill (64,000 rubles?) and called the porter to bring our bags down. We realized breakfast was NOT included every day as they said and for $100 a day we had a polite argument, which ended up with the breakfasts being removed. When Marina met us and heard about this she about passed out and dragged us to a coffee shop down the street. Fine with us! We then met the car and went back the Cathedral of Christ the Savior (the new one) and went to the top for a private tour of the roof top terraces. It was interesting seeing Moscow from this perspective. So many glittering gold domes!

We then headed to a convent where Peter the Greats older sister was exiled when she tried to de throne him. It was really serene situated on a small pond with ducks swimming about and the fall leaves spinning all around us to their death as mulch. I can’t imagine being in Moscow at any other time. It seems that autumn is made for Moscow. No tourists and the Muscovites are just getting into their fall gear without the dreaded winter wardrobe. We toured the convent, viewed more amazing icons and walked about the property admiring buildings and burial plots. Then we met the driver and again and headed over the main cemetery of Moscow. A bit like Pere Lechaise, the tombstones are all different and this is where every famous politician, artists and scientist is buried. The gravestones were GREAT. Amazing fonts, interesting sculptures and some great photos framed into the tombstones of young lovers of the 20’s now forever ensconced together forever.

We then headed back to town where Marina took us to a traditional Russian lunch of Borscht and Pirogues. YUM. I could dine on that menu daily. Meat, beets and bread.
By then it was almost time to head to the train stations so we lulled about the hotel for a bit and then the driver met us and packed us up to the train station. I love that all the major stations are next to each other and each one has the most amazing architecture. My favorite was the Art Nouveau/Hansel & Gretel looking station for the Trans-Siberian Railroad.

We gathered our bags and Marina took us to car 11 in first class, gave us both big hugs and we gave her a big tip and settled in. Thank God we are in first class. I can’t imagine what coach is like. This toilet looks like a garden hose gone mad. At least they are playing movies. None I have ever heard of but all have Parker Posey, Richard Gere or some other so and so in it. We should be in St. Petersburg in one hour. Toot toot!

As soon as we arrived we were both transfixed. Olga was at our car waiting for us with a big double kiss and hug. She is Elena’s daughter who toured us around one day last trip and she is probably my age and super cute and fun. The train station was a bit of a let down. I was really hoping for some regal Victorian station but this one was fully Mod, which is amazing in its own right. It was much colder and rainy when we stepped outside and our driver whisked us to The Grand Hotel Europe. This is the most famous hotel in the city. Rasputin at there, any celebrity or diplomat who has visited the city has either stayed here or dined at the famous Caviar Bar for the past 130 years.

As soon as we walked in mother was hooked! It is so her- old world charm, piano tinkling, etc. Our room was amazing. Well the room was fine but the view was perfect- the Cathedral of Spilled Blood was front and center. I know the PR people for the Hotel in NYC and Kristen at Brandman PR alerted the PR team in Russia that we were coming. I think that had something to do with the view as well as the three day complimentary Internet access pass AND a dinner at Caviar Bar on them. It didn’t take long for mom to decide that this is the place she wants to celebrate her 70th birthday! It also didn’t take long for either of us to be upset that we were only here for two days. With arriving at 10pm Monday and mother leaving at 5am on Thursday it didn’t give us much time to settle in but we made the most of it.

After Olga dropped us off we unpacked quickly and walked down the street to Tiffany- a swank little bar/restaurant where Olga had made a reservation for us. We had a glass of red and I had a great beef stroganoff. We finished around 12 and hit the hay ready for a full day of touring!



Tuesday

I woke up around 8 and had a nice jog around the cathedral and down the Nevsky Prospect. I told Olga about this and how everyone looked at me like a wild man jogging through crowds. She just rolled her eyes and said, “You know only American’s do this thing, jogging.” Very amusing.

Mom and I had breakfast in the main dining room, which is an art nouveau jewel box. Stained glass, high barrel vaulted ceilings, oak carved cherubs and metallic Arts & Crafts tiles decked out the room. The harpist was the key part that set the stage.

We met Olga at 10:30 and headed to the Hermitage. It was so different then our last trip in August 2005. It was just filled with tourist then. Lines around blocks, noise everywhere. This morning we were the ONLY people walking into the front door or the Winter Palace. It was a dream comes true. We spent hours in the Hermitage touring the staterooms, Rembrandt room, sleigh rooms and gallery upon gallery of great paintings. It was such a treat. We then had a quick lunch in the Hermitage café then headed to the Yusopov Palace where Rasputin was killed. Mother and I just read the autobiography of Prince Felix Yusopov so knew the house well. Again we were almost there all alone and spent as much time in each room as we wanted. The house was very impressive; the Yousopov’s were wealthier than the Tsar’s after all! Seeing Rasputin’s room was super eerie. There were wax figures sat down to resemble Felix and Rasputin when Felix gave him poisoned cookies. Just to know what happened and how this staric was murdered in this room really gave me chills.

After that we went back to the hotel to relax for a bit before our 730 ballet. I didn’t realize we were going back to the Hermitage to see Swan Lake in Catherine the Great’s private theater. Super chic. The ballet was fantastic and it was open seating so we sat in the second row on the far left, where apparently, Catherine used to sit. Afterwards our sweet little driver Jerge was standing at the exit door with umbrella’s for us to use on the way to the car. We had dinner at Terrace, the restaurant on the top floor of Vanity, which is kind of like the Barneys of St. Petersburg. It was late and there were just a few people dining. I had corn soup and more beef stroganoff! I would of rather dined at Lumier, a swank sparkly place in the Grand Palace shopping center but Olga suggested this place and it was fine. Didn’t take long to pass in the hotel after another day of intensive touring.

Wednesday- LAST DAY

We woke up and gowned around for the first time. We didn’t have to meet Olga until 10:30 so we packed and piddled. Breakfast in the main dining room again and met Olga for a tour of the country palaces of the royals. After an hour we reached Catherine’s Palace, or Tsarskoi Celo (Tsars City). Again, no lines and just a pile of school children rambling about the place on a day trip. Heaven. We have been here before but this time we got to linger in rooms, ask more questions and just ponder the greatness that these palaces hold. We then toured a bit of the gardens, the Cameron (that was closed- boo!) and saw the Turkish baths being restored from across the lake.

Next stop was an unscheduled one. I asked about Gatchina Castle since I see it in all of my Russia books and Olga’s eyes lit up. Why don’t we go there? Why not? That is why I love a private guide. Touring on a lark! We drove out to the castle, which is a bit run down and toured around. It is interesting to see rooms still being restored from 1945 when the German’s burnt the palace after using it as an HQ. One curved gallery that was once a regal room filled with portraits was just bricks, black marks and gusty from winds whipping in from the chimney. You could still see some of the deep moldings, fireplace reliefs and floor moldings. Very bizarre.

Next we went to lunch at a place Elena took us to last time, deep in the woods of the countryside there is a faux Dascha built of wood and rambling around a parking lot. It is one of the most famous ‘traditional’ Russian restaurants in the country and Boris Yeltsin even had one of his Hoorah Henry Birthday parties here. I belief I had Beef Stroganoff yet again! With a lovely Borscht and a pint of Stella. We took a picture with the famous stuffed bear at the front door and after lunch I dreamily glided out of there on a beer buzz into the car for a bit of a nap on the way back to the city.

Once back in the bustle of the Burg we toured the StroganovskyPalace, where my favorite menu entrée was invented! They were a wealthy family and often opened the back garden of their palace for free meals to for the less unfortunate. Next stop was a shopping showdown at a new tourist shop called Beluga that Olga wanted us to see. It was the best tourist shopping I have seen in Russia with room upon room of tchotchke from stacking dolls, malachite boxes, fur, amber, Communist memorabilia and faux Faberge eggs. I got ALL of my friends sorted for Christmas, which was a delight.

Beluga was next to our hotel so afterwards mother said her final goodbye to Olga and I made a date in the morning to meet her to head to the Kunstkammer. Mom and I headed back, finished packing and then went downstairs to the famous Caviar Bar for dinner. It was a bit odd since we were the only people dining there. They had a Russian band playing and singing just to us and the wait staff all knew I was a journalist so tripped over themselves to take care of us. I got absolutely bombed that night which was kind of great. As Olga said- you may as well take advantage of the vodka if it is free! And I did. They must have poured at least 5-6 shots of vodka that I sipped while enjoying the Beluga Caviar and then, you guessed it, Beef Stroganoff. The room was beautifully sedate in it’s Art Nouveau styling, the waiters were cute and charming and the food was incredible. The perfect ending to our trip. Afterwards we headed down to the dark and romantic oak bar where a piano was tinkling and a chanteuse was crooning out an old standard. I ordered a martini and mother ordered a ‘Pushkin’, which I believe, was champagne and raspberry juice. It came with a small poem tied up in silk velvet. I ordered one last pack of cigarettes since they cost a whopping $1 even in this posh bar! Our last stupid human trick was to figure out Olga’s payment whilst being tipsy. It was not fun since the ATM’s had no more Euros (which was her preferred payment method) so we had to pay part Rubles, part Dollars and figure out all the exchanges to make it even. Buzz Kill! But we managed before passing out at 11 for mothers 4am wakeup call.

Thursday

The wake up call came at 4:15 am and for some reason I was wide awake and checked email while mom got dressed and sorted. After a huge hug she headed downstairs to meet Jorge at the car to transfer to Moscow then Atlanta. I tried to sleep but didn’t have much luck. The Presidential debate was on live from NYC so I watched that for a bit before dozing off again. At 8:30 I took my last jog through the city. This morning was especially nippy and drizzly but I managed to get back around the Cathedral and this time around the Hermitage where I got thoroughly lost. Fun though!

I met Olga at 10:30 and we decided to go to the Menchicoff Palace before the Kunstkammer. Menchicoff was Peter the Greats best friend and ‘ruler’ of St. Petersburg when Peter was in Moscow. He also built the first stone palace on the marshes in the late 1600’s. It is very Dutch in design and extravagant in some areas. Where most people could only afford Delft tiles on their stoves he covered four entire rooms with them floor to ceiling. There were Chinese wall panels too that looked very rough but are impressive to have still intact. Next we walked to the Kunstkammer and Olga showed me where she went to school and other interesting buildings. I really enjoyed my time with her. I could see us being friends if she ever lived in NYC.

We finally arrived at the Kunstkammer, a place I have wanted to go to since my last trip. A Kunstkammer is a ‘cabinet of curiosities’, which was fashionable in the 18th Century. Peter collected things from all around the world to display here and encouraged Russians to visit and learn more about the world since Russians were still a bit in the Dark Ages. On the last trip Elena really didn’t want to take us there and Olga was similarly hesitant, I now know why. The place is a bit run down and the first two stories are all displays of Tribal costume and utensils. I was expecting a room filled with exotic stuffed birds, paintings, stones, fabrics, animals and shells but instead Olga took me to a room filled with close to 100 18th Century deformed babies in formaldehyde! I had always heard Peter collected deformed babies but I never understood that was the full collection. We probably spent an hour looking at them. Some truly frightening with hair waving in the solution, others with deformed legs that made them look like Casper the ghost. I never knew Cyclops’s were actual beings but sure enough we saw 4-5 Cyclops that I don’t think were ever born but I am not certain. After that ghoulish experience we went to the top floor to see the rooms that used to house a library and research office with great views of the city.

For lunch we went to the Grand Palace mall where Lumiere is. On the top floor across from Lumiere is a hot spot (forgot the name!), which at night is a swinging bar. We sat overlooking the city and ordered the best hamburgers in St. Petersburg. Just what the doctor ordered before a long trip to Bristol! The wait staff was too good looking to handle and Olga and I both got glassy eyed at our waiter. Finally it was time to say goodbye to Russia. Olga put me in the car after I apologetically gave her our wild payment and waved me off to the airport. I went through security and waited patiently for my flight to London where I will then head to Bristol for Angela and Colin’s wedding.

This trip was the most informational I think I have ever been on. Never a dull moment and not much time to just rest, but we both really enjoyed what we learned and had a good time just being together and sharing the amazing experience that is Russia. I am certainly looking forward to mom’s 70th birthday. A boat cruise down the Neva perhaps?