La Fenice — Diary of a Sugar Dandy

Day two in Venice and we were off like race horses to cover all we wanted to see. First stop was the Fenice Theater which burnt down about ten years ago and like the bird it was named after, the phoenix, it rose again bigger and more splendid. I most enjoyed learning about the royal box in the center of the opera house.

It didn't exist when the opera was built since the Doges was not a royal figure. Then when Napoleon took over they made the box. Then when he was defeated they built back the 12 smaller boxes, then when it was annexed to Austria (forgive my history if I’m off a bit, I’m on vacation!) they built the box back. Who’s on first?

Then we headed to the Fortuny Museum. On our way I saw a poster of Diana Vreeland and my heart started racing. I forgot there is an exhibit about her on at the museum so of course we dashed over there in total ecstasy. The show, covering two stories was divine. They curated it as she would have, grouping things in colors and themes not neccessarily historically.

There was a Paco Rabbane green dress next to an18th century ball gown in mint green. There were four portraits of her by friends like Beaton and Berard. And to see all of this in the grand home of one of my favorite artists and designers, with walls swathed in yards of his fabrics, it couldn’t get any better unless her ghost was giving me a private tour (can you imagine?).

Fortuny’s studio sink with his paint brush strokes splattered all over the wall gave me chills of pleasure.

Poster/Book/Zebra shirt. Check.

Fortuny Fabric swatch book

In the same museum there was a super creepy wax figure exhibit that had mother running for the hills. Apparently Venice was the most important wax casting city in the 18th century (Where are you Miss Madame Tussaud?).