Day Four: Venice and The Ship

On our last day in Venice we packed up, had a bit of breakfast, booked our water taxi for 2:30 and headed out for some last chance ogling of sites. The flood gates of philistines had opened on the Lord’s day as every canal was jammed with gondolas piled high with tourists and every street was a venetian tango with fanny packs and locals taking their dogs on tedious walks. 

I was ecstatic to find the Venetian carnival shop opened where I had eyed a little cape I need for my Halloween costume (going masked Venetian!). I’m not sure what it really is frankly. It’s a cape that goes around your face (think a nun) and then has about two feet of lace at the bottom hitting around the waist. You secure it with the tricorn hat (Rod, we will be adding some fluff to this basic one I bought) and then sport another cape underneath it (which I already own two of). I guess it is to give the utmost in disguise to the costumed carnival goer. God knows how I will eat or drink but I’m sure it will work out!

We then headed to the Doges palace for a quick tour. I remember loving it last time and it was amazing to see it again. The rich silk damask walls, gilded everything and cararra marble fireplaces with St. Mark’s lion carved anywhere there wasn’t a fat faced putti blowing on something or waving around in excitement. The Titian's and Tintoretto's were so sublime. One Titian was hidden in a stairwell for the Doges to gaze at alone before entering the public spaces. How sacred. 

After that we grabbed some crap lunch for $60 in the square before getting back to the hotel where our boat was awaiting. The porter piled our luggage on and off we went to the the BIG BOAT. 

The Carnival Breeze is brand new to the Carnival line and is apparently part of their ‘dream’ line of higher end ships. The high end part lost all luster when I saw a two story water slide twirling around the top of this 12 story behemoth. 

Once we checked in, got scanned, prodded and ID’d we made it to our suite which really is swish and all new! No bed bugs here! We have a cosy little sitting area, two single beds and a massive bathroom with jacuzzi. Most importantly there are two grand closets so mother and I aren’t mixing up panties and drawers with bras and gym socks. Praise!

After unpacking we took a tour of the ship. Had a wee bite to eat and then found part of the 12 members of our group from mom and dad’s yacht club in Georgia by the pool in full cocktail mode. We all made a date for the port side of the ship at 6:15 to kick off the departure, drinks in hand. It was a rather fantastic voyage out of Venice passing by all the iconic areas and monuments and seeing many parts I didn’t even know existed. Carnival got points for having Pavarotti bellowing as we set sail.

Dinner was a mad dash at 6:45 and we have a great table for 12 looking over the stern of the ship for the duration of the trip. Afterwards everyone went to see the show in the theater but I went back to work, meditate and have some me time. How divine to edit my work and send emails from our little balcony as the moon shines and the waves roll. 

Mother got back at 11:30 and we were both pleasantly passed out in our little beds by midnight. Here is to 11 more days of this!

Venice/Bologna/Dozza Day Three

Today we took a trip to the country to see Victoria and her family and farm. It has been eight years since I was there last so I was eager to see the progress they have made with the farm.

Mother and I took a gorgeous trip via water taxi to the train station where we gazed at many a gorgeous palazzo.

 Then we took the bullet train to Bologna where we met Victoria and had lunch at a cosy little spot where we sampled local cheeses and Prosecco. 

Then Vic drove us to her farm (sorry I passed out on that 30 min trip Vic!) and we toured the farm and all of it’s new buildings and animals. We picked fresh cherries, petted the goats and toured the farm and caught up with Vic and Davide. 

After a while we drove up to the medieval town of Dozza and toured the enoteca  (Always wondered what that means - wine repository!) and admired the local art before heading to the Imola train station for the trip back to Venice.

After our train broke down and we waited for an hour for the next one to Venice we made it home. Then we took the local water taxi that took an hour to San Marco so when we finally arrived we indulged in a swellegant dinner at the Londra Palace Hotel and people watched (hello hot Italians!).  Weary after a long day of traveling we turned in to get in as much as possible on Sunday, our last day in Venice. But not before a quick photo shoot with my latest purchase. As Vic would say, “SAUCY!” 

Venice Day Two

Day two in Venice and we were off like race horses to cover all we wanted to see. First stop was the Fenice Theater which burnt down about ten years ago and like the bird it was named after, the phoenix, it rose again bigger and more splendid. I most enjoyed learning about the royal box in the center of the opera house.

It didn't exist when the opera was built since the Doges was not a royal figure. Then when Napoleon took over they made the box. Then when he was defeated they built back the 12 smaller boxes, then when it was annexed to Austria (forgive my history if I’m off a bit, I’m on vacation!) they built the box back. Who’s on first?

Then we headed to the Fortuny Museum. On our way I saw a poster of Diana Vreeland and my heart started racing. I forgot there is an exhibit about her on at the museum so of course we dashed over there in total ecstasy. The show, covering two stories was divine. They curated it as she would have, grouping things in colors and themes not neccessarily historically.

 There was a Paco Rabbane green dress next to an18th century ball gown in mint green. There were four portraits of her by friends like Beaton and Berard. And to see all of this in the grand home of one of my favorite artists and designers, with walls swathed in yards of his fabrics, it couldn’t get any better unless her ghost was giving me a private tour (can you imagine?).

Fortuny’s studio sink with his paint brush strokes splattered all over the wall gave me chills of pleasure. 

                                                   

Poster/Book/Zebra shirt. Check. 

         
                                                         Fortuny Fabric swatch book

In the same museum there was a super creepy wax figure exhibit that had mother running for the hills. Apparently Venice was the most important wax casting city in the 18th century (Where are you Miss Madame Tussaud?).

Here they whipped up wax figures of royals, saints, children and deceased villains. How ghastly and exciting! 

 Peggy's House. (Tickling penis picture to come...)                  

Mother and her mount.

                                               I love the piles of gilt in Venetian stores....

                                                 Why don't you have a violet scented mint?                  

    

                                                 

                                                                     Missing Fergus.

                                                 


                                                                       Harry's Bar

                                                                              Clink!

                                            Mother and our coconut pyramid dessert at Florian

                                                              Blackamoor Realness- Hello Othello!

                                                  For all my peeps in ATL- Coke Art!

Venice Day One

It's been two years since I have been in Europe and six since Italy. I forgot how much this ancient land seeps into my soul every time I arrive. And how different is it each time? Not that I am 36, more experienced (in too many things), on a different path and longing for idyl days, a private water taxi to the Hotel Kette was tailored for my Brideshead Venice Revisited moment. 

Here we are for three glorious days before our cruise to Barcelona.

Here is a recap of day one in all of it's jet lagged glory. 

 Hi Lord Byron! " I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs/ A palace and a prison on each hand."
                                             (And he didn't mention the clap between his thighs!)

 Here is the sweet man hauling our luggage of bricks int the hotel. We already saw one man drop 50 Euro's into the canal so we are hoping our luggage doesn't have the same fate.

 Tight quarters for mother and son but it will do. Oh wait, there is no a/c. Charmant.

 View from the room. Looks lovely until the gondoliers float by screeching love songs to walruses from England during nap time.

 Lunch at Lineadombra, a NYT recommendation and well worth the 30 min stroll. Amazing food and perfect view. 

 Ahhhhhh... the Blackamoors of Venice. Hello, darlings.

Hmmm... this is looking familiar. I wondered where mine flew off to.

There she is! Back again. We remembered our last visit here together when we decided to climb to the top of the bell tower only to realize it was high noon. When the bells started mother said, "You heard - oh shit! - in 20 languages!"

Drinks at the Danieli, the best martini I've had in Europe.

Dusk on the Grand Canal with the moon saying hello.

A shop I simply wanted to curl up in and dream...